Watching the World Cup in the heart of Toronto’s Little Portugal

I had no cultural skin in the game so I wasn’t about to drop a king’s ransom on a ticket to see Portugal and Croatia play in a World Cup knockout game at BMO Field, the last game in Toronto for this epic global tournament.

But with both teams enjoying huge support in the GTA, checking out the vibe in Little Portugal on this sweltering evening was something I was very much down for.

So I spent $6.76 on a parking spot on Spot Hero and headed to College Street after work to see some soccer in the heart of the Portuguese community in Toronto.

My first stop was actually in Little Italy – doubling as Little Portugal for this year’s World Cup, with Italy failing to qualify – and I had my first inkling of the popularity of the game when I was turned away from Café Diplomatico, with the restaurant already at capacity 40 minutes before kickoff.

That’s how I spent the first quarter of the match at a ramen house on College, sampling a spicy chicken and rice dish and drinking endless glasses of water while watching the game at a communal table with a couple of guys – one a bonafide Buenos Aires-born Messi fan – on one of several televisions scattered around the place.

Streetside viewing parties

I went for walkabout at the first hydration break but didn’t make it far, as Bierria Volo, a craft beer bar that also had the game on, was just around the corner. I watched the rest of the scoreless first half there while sipping on a locally brewed pale ale.

At the half I left and headed towards Little Portugal, passing numerous cafes, bars and local businesses, all with multiple screens and crowds of people both inside and on the street enjoying the action.

By the time the second half began I was without a place to sit so I wandered up College, stopping by various patios to watch the game from the street.

The agony of Croatia scoring was seen on the faces of the pro-Portuguese crowd and the emotional hills and valleys were also evident as Portugal’s tying goal was waived off for offside. As was Croatia’s subsequent goal that would have made it 2-0.

Then Portugal earned a penalty and the legendary Cristiano Ronaldo, all of 41 years and seemingly showing signs of finally slowing down, stepped up to take the kick.

Ronaldo scored and the crowd was sent into a frenzy.

Portugal had a lifeline.

Portugal fans after Ronaldo scored from the spot to tie the game

That was my ticket to move on and find a place to sit and watch the rest of the match and I found it in a fancy spot near Ossington, where I tucked into some octopus and sipped on a half-glass of red while watching an incredible finish, with Portugal scoring the winner in the 90^th minute and Croatia squaring things up at the 12-minute mark of ten scheduled minutes of stoppage time.

The offside flag was up, however, and after a lengthy review the goal was denied and after a few more anxious moments the ref’s final whistle sent Portugal onto the last 16, where they will play Iberian rival and 2010 champion Spain.

That was also my excuse to head back to my car and head south to Dundas to experience the full flavour of a World Cup in the heart of Little Portugal.

And … nothing., It was actually all quiet until I reached Dovercourt and the traffic just stopped. Hundreds of Portuguese supporters were out in the street waving flags and blocking traffic and the only way through was to slowly – very slowly – run a gauntlet of flags – a literal rite of passage, if you will – before the crowd allowed you to pass.

I, of course, pulled over as quick as I could and ran back to snap a few shots. It truly was a wild scene.

The rest of the journey was almost as crazy, with bumper-to-bumper traffic and constant honking all along St. Clair. I headed north on Lansdowne and eventually Caledonia on my way back to Downsview and the honking (I participated as well) did not stop until I was well north of Eglinton.

Maybe, just maybe, I felt just a little Portuguese on this night.

Maybe I had a little skin in the game after all.

The rite of safe passage on Dundas